LOOK at those beautiful sandstone formations, said Daoud our guide, pointing out colourful changes in the mountains while walking through the Siq, a deep and narrow gorge leading to the main city of Petra.

But these were nothing compared to The Treasury - which warranted a full 180 degrees turn - and was a breath-taking sight.

Standing at 43m high, Al-Khazneh, as it is known locally, is the pride and joy of the well-preserved Nabatean city, in the southern part of the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan - a four hour flight from London.

It looks familiar, because it has been made famous by blockbuster films like Indiana Jones And The Last Crusade.

Carved in the 1st century BC out of the solid sandstone as a tomb for a Nabatean king, it may have been later used as a temple.

Though The Treasury is the most spectacular building in Petra, much more in this ancient city keeps visitors fascinated.

After heading deeper into the city, you'll arrive at the Urn Tomb, largest of the Royal Tombs believed to have been carved around 70AD. It's worth climbing up to the High Place Of Sacrifice for a fantastic view of the city, and the Ad-Deir (Monastery).

You can cover the main sights in five hours, but if you have the time, stay three days to explore it fully. Petra at night is an amazing sight, as lighted candles flicker along the Siq.

You may be justified in thinking that it doesn't get much better than Petra, but you would be mistaken. Follow the locals on a 4x4 jeep trip into Wadi Rum, a desert of rust-red sand made famous by Lawrence Of Arabia.

Views of sunrises and sunsets compare with the Grand Canyon in the US - and the surrounding silence can be haunting.

By this time, your Bedouin drivers will have lit their fire and brewed up. Join them for a cup of famous herbal tea, mixed with cardamom and served the traditional way, strong and sweet.

You can also sample home-cooked Bedouin cuisine (tender pieces of lamb and chicken with buttered rice) at the desert camp, which has live music and Arabian dancing.

A visit to the Dead Sea is a must. I looked forward to floating in this highly saline sea, the lowest point of Earth, to flick through my magazine until I realised why locals shy away from staying in for too long.

Not only is it uncomfortable - any cuts, wounds or even dry skin after shaving or sunburn immediately absorb the salt - and you have to be careful not to get salt in eyes or ears unless you're prepared for the agony. Slippery rocks on at the bottom can be painful too.

Swimming or paddling is impossible - but despite all this, the benefits of the Dead Sea are well documented. The salt has an oily film with moisturising properties, and works wonders with the salt to produce an exfoliating effect, similar to a salt scrub. Unfortunately, it leaves an itchy coating you can't wait to get rid of.

Luckily, just under an hour's drive to the city of Amman, I was invited to have an Aroma-Relax treatment, using aromatherapy oils of sandalwood and almond, at the Four Seasons hotel.

Bliss! After Petra, Wadi Rum and the painful Dead Sea, I was able to indulge in real pampering: a facial and a body massage which were heaven, at least for an hour.

Next day we set off to explore well-preserved Roman ruins in the city of Jerash, an hour's drive from Amman.

Jerash was beautiful in its own way, before we hit Amman with its bustling souks, the Citadel with panoramic views of the city and its coffee shops, where you can people-watch while taking a breath of apple-flavoured "hubbly bubbly" - water pipes.

If you have a sweet tooth, visit sweet specialists Zalatimo (there are several stores in the city) for baklava, the Middle Eastern sweets made with pistachios and pastry.

They also offer some complimentary tasters, but check that you don't end up paying for these.

Other Jordanian delicacies are fresh pistachios and nuts, local hand-made desserts made with honey and pistachios, and Dead Sea products as souvenirs. Located between Israel and Iraq, Jordan has seen its tourism hit by Middle East tensions. But I saw no sign of trouble, and groups of Americans visited sites without any confrontation from locals.

However, in a Muslim country you must dress appropriately. Avoid revealing tops and keep shoulders, back and upper legs covered out of respect.

With so much to do and see, take a week to explore Jordan fully. I will definitely return at some stage.

TRAVEL FACTS

Shereen Low was a guest of Abercrombie & Kent whose seven night Signature Jordan itinerary is in its Egypt & Arabia programme.

It includes two night in Amman (staying at Four Seasons Hotel Amman), three nights in Petra and two nights at Dead Sea, from £1,270 per person in Jan/Feb and July 1-Aug 25. Price includes return flights, B&B accommodation, transfers and sightseeing.

Prices given are from London Heathrow, but A&K can arrange regional departures at extra cost.

Jordan Visitors Guide available from Jordan Tourism Board, Kennedy House, First Floor, 115 Hammersmith Road, London W14 OQH. Telephone: 020 7371 6496 or visit: www.see-jordan.com

For further details on holidays to Jordan contact your local ABTA travel agent.

Abercrombie & Kent reservations: 0845 0700 612 or www.abercrombiekent.co.uk.