SINCE its opening three years ago, Mash & Air has enjoyed a reputation for attracting the beautiful people who enjoy its beautiful food in equally beautiful surroundings . . . at a price. The bar and its two restaurants, Mash on the second floor, Air on the fourth, are not cheap. But does this exclusive, yet popular, eaterie justify its prices?

Well, the answer is most definitely yes.

From the telephone manner of the person taking our booking -- helpful, courteous and friendly -- to the service of the waiting staff, our visit was pure pleasure from start to finish.

We were met at the door by a smiling lady who directed us to the bar for a pre-dinner drink -- a Sea Breeze cocktail for me and a sparkling mineral water for my driver, sorry boyfriend, came to around £6.20.

The bar was packed with trendies and the odd celeb, including Bolton actor, Paul Nicholls, but enjoyed a comfy and relaxed atmosphere enhanced by some brilliant background music.

Taking the lift to Air on the fourth floor we were met at the restaurant by another smiling member of staff who relieved us of our coats before showing us to our table.

The restaurant has a distinctive urban feel to it -- bright, airy and tasteful and, as if by magic, a, yes you've guessed, smiling waitress suddenly appeared at our table.

All the waiting staff were immaculately dressed in grey shirts and trousers with the supervisors in designer trouser suits.

Delicious complementary bread was placed on the table and two large glasses of red wine were ordered, about £4.50 each.

Our food order was taken by a helpful female supervisor and I plumped for the terrine of sweet potato and Rosary goats cheese with cherry balsamic dressing, £6.50, while my boyfriend (Justin) went for the seared blue-fin tuna with pickled cucumber and crisp egg noodles, £7.50.

Like any couple we had a forkful of each other's food before tucking into our own. Mine was delicious -- a tad rich, but then goats' cheese is -- and the dressing sublime.

The tuna, left raw in the middle as advised by the waiting staff, was probably the most succulent I've ever tasted and Justin declared the cucumber dressing delicious.

Next I had pan roast salmon with mango and tarragon mash, honeyed filo disc and saffron dressing, £14.95, and Justin chose the oven-roasted West Coast cod, snow pea and fennel salad with celeriac remoulade, £14.75.

These were accompanied by side orders of parsley buttered new potatoes, £2.50, and rocket and parmesan salad, £3.90.

The whole ensemble was a culinary delight but my mango and tarragon mash was to die for. I could've wolfed down a whole plate but vanity prevented me from doing so -- although I'm sure had I asked, my smiling waitress would have happily obliged.

One prod of my fork and the salmon delicately fell into the waiting saffron dressing and, scooping up a forkful of the most wonderful parmesan salad on the way, I was in heaven.

Justin announced the cod cooked to perfection and had finished the parsley potatoes before I could say "more wine please".

Ever the glutton I happily digested the dessert menu and decided to opt for something light.

The mandarin creme brulee, £5, was just that. Light, creamy and just enough to fill that last gap.

All this left no room for coffee but one thing's for sure, I'll certainly be popping back for a cup.

The total bill came to just over £71, a 10 per cent service charge was included, and we both felt it was well worth it.

The decor, ambience, an army of staff who couldn't do enough for you, and, of course the food -- prepared by chef Jason Whitelock and his team -- make Mash & Air a must on the Manchester restaurant map. Karen Stephen

Converted for the new archive on 14 July 2000. Some images and formatting may have been lost in the conversion.