WHEN we think of warming dishes during these chilly days we tend to think of meat.

But, do give fish a chance to cheer up appetites -- it's really versatile stuff.

Take this recipe for Cullen Skink, for example, from Saxby's the pastry firm. It's just the job for a filling supper following a brisk walk with the family on Christmas Day.

And it's the kind of hearty winter-warmer that's guaranteed to keep those rosy cheeks all a glow anytime!

CULLEN SKINK

Serves 4

Ingredients:

450g (1lb) smoked haddock fillet

50g (2oz) butter

1 medium onion, roughly chopped

2 leeks, thinly sliced

225g (8oz) potatoes, peeled and cut into small chunks

4 small carrots, sliced

25g (1oz) plain flour

400ml ( pint) fish stock

black pepper

150ml ( pint) double cream

250g puff pastry

beaten egg to glaze

Place the haddock in a frying pan and cover with cold water. Bring slowly to the boil, lower the heat and simmer for 4 minutes or until the fish is opaque. Drain, discard any skin and bones and flake the fish. Set aside.

Melt the butter in a large saucepan and stir in the onion and the leeks, cook until softened. Add the potatoes and carrots and fry for 5 minutes.

Blend the flour with a little stock and add to the pan. Bring to the boil, stirring constantly. Cover and simmer for 30 minutes until the vegetables are tender. Season with black pepper.

Allow to cool, then stir in the cream and haddock. Spoon into 4 ovenproof bowls. Pre-heat the oven to Gas Mark 7, 425 deg F, 220 deg C.

Cut the pastry into 4 pieces, Roll out each piece to fit over the tops of the bowls. Dampen the edges of the bowls and cover with pastry, taking care not to stretch it. Trim with a sharp knife. Place the bowls on a baking sheet. Decorate with cut out pastry leaves.

Brush the pastry with the beaten egg and bake for 20 minutes until golden brown. Serve at once with winter vegetables.

For more recipes like this, take a look at the Saxby's and Fern Britton Cooking at Home Cookery Book. All the proceeds go to the Pink Ribbon Breast Cancer Charity. Just send a cheque for £1 to: Pink Ribbon, c/o JFW The Dairy, 1 Narborough Wood Park, Desford Road, Enderby, Leicester LE9 5XT. Don't forget to include your address.