WARWICKSHIRE: Historic weekend

A VISIT to Shakespeare Country puts the beautiful villages and towns of Warwickshire centre stage.

But it does throw up a major problem -- where to throw the spotlight first?

The area of South Warwickshire naturally covers Shakespeare's Stratford-upon-Avon, but in addition there are the historic towns of Warwick, Kenilworth and Royal Leamington Spa.

That is before you consider the stunning variety of country villages, and the fact that the Cotswolds and their delights are on the doorstep.

So, arriving for a weekend posed a dilemma -- how to pack the most in to Saturday and Sunday?

The fact that the weekend break was in November did nothing to detract from the number of attractions on offer.

Nor did it effect the vast number of various accommodation available.

My husband and I were being accommodated in a bed and breakfast in the village of Barford. Avonside Cottage nestles in a beautiful spot, overlooking at the rear, the River Avon and the seemingless endless miles of countryside.

Having never stayed in a B&B before, we were a little wary of what to expect. Our trepidation disappeared as soon as we saw the beautiful cottage, and opened the door to a warm and friendly large dining room complete with original beams, and tasteful furnishing. The bedroom was in much the same immaculate taste. The large room, including spotless spacious en-suite bathroom, overlooked the River Avon.

Breakfasts were lavish and served on a huge table.

Barford boasted two pubs within walking distance. So, having negotiated the traffic on a Friday evening, we were thankful to not have to jump back in the car in search of food.

In fact the bedroom was packed with local information, pamphlets on the surrounding tourist attractions, and even the menus of both pubs. Taking the recommendation of our landlady, we took the 10 minute walk to the pub and were astounded by the quality of "pub food". The chef at the pub had worked at The Savoy and opted out for life in the village of Barford.

The village is a perfect location for anyone who wants to tour the area. Warwick is five minutes away by car, and Stratford-upon-Avon little more than 10.

On Saturday we decided to take a look at Warwick. The beauty of staying at a smaller establishment was that we were given advice on route to take, parking and the sights worth seeing.

Warwick Castle provides the natural focal point. From the outside it may not look as grand as some of the stately homes throughout the country, but looks can be deceptive. Inside, the castle utilises just about every space it has. Dating back to William the Conqueror, the castle's history spans through to Victorian times. Its publicity leaflets proclaim "Experience a thousand years of history in one day!" and it lives up to the claim.

Each era has its place within the castle walls (admission is £10.25 for adults). Visitors can see, and even smell, a mediaeval household as it prepares for battle, descend into the damp dungeons, climb into the cold eerie towers, and then step forward in time to wander through the Victorian state rooms, joining what has gone down in the archives as a Royal Weekend Party 1898.

Rooms are decorated to depict each era, and in the larger sections, wax work dummies add to the sense of being a part of history.

There is even a haunted castle and eerie commentary to add to the atmosphere. The castle is in the heart of Warwick and visitors can leave vehicles in its car park (£1 to park for all day) and wander into the shopping centre, which is pleasant. The other main place of interest is the Lord Leycester Hospital, a stunning building built in 1571, which visitors are welcome to look around.

A full, enjoyable and exhausting day in Warwick left no time to explore any other areas. Stratford-upon-Avon, too, can easily fill a day or two . . . or three.

A wealth of historic buildings mingle easily with modern shops and office blocks, so it is well worth taking a guided tour to learn exactly what you are looking at. The Guide Friday Stratford bus tours cost £10 adults and £5 for children. Family tickets are £25. They are well worth the money. The open top buses travel through Stratford, complete with guide, pointing out places of interest. It stops at each of the Shakespeare houses. Passengers are able to get off and on the regular guide buses throughout the day, retaining the same ticket.

The tours take in Mary Arden's cottage, three miles outside Stratford, and Anne Hathaway's Cottage one mile from the centre. Inside the centre are Shakespeare's birthplace, Hall's Croft -- home of Dr John Hall who married Shakespeare's daughter Susanna, and Nash's House -- home to Thomas Nash, husband to Shakespeare's granddaughter Elizabeth. Next door are the gardens of New Place, where Shakespeare spent the last years of his life. Sadly the building no longer stands, but the gardens are worth a visit.

Anne Hathaway's Cottage in Shottery is particularly worth visiting. A beautiful thatch-roofed building, much of the family's furniture remains intact, and its rooms still retain an atmosphere of what life would have been like in the Sixteenth Century.

Admission prices are not included in the price of the bus tour ticket, and visits are optional. It is probably best to visit two or three.

Although a bustling city Stratford retains a certain charm. There are numerous restaurants, cafes and craft shops, as well as all the usual chain stores associated with bustling town centres.

Additional attractions we did not manage to appreciate due to a lack of time, included the river and parks which run through the centre of Stratford, as well as of course the famous Royal Shakespeare Company Theatre. The beauty of a great many of the attractions throughout the area is that it is open all year round.

This was a packed and exhausting weekend -- but most enjoyable. Even though we did not stop moving throughout the two days, we returned to Greater Manchester aware that we had only visited the tip of the iceberg.

Contact South Warwickshire Tourism on 01926 404889 for further details on the area, or local ABTA travel agents.

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