Wagamama , The Printworks, Manchester

DID you thoroughly enjoy the World Cup but couldn't afford the trip to Japan? Then pop into a Japanese noodle bar instead. There are couple of them around if you know where to look, and we had no trouble finding Wagamama in The Printworks.

The first thing you notice when you climb down the stairs into this trendy underground restaurant is its size. Wagamama looks more like a stylish subterranean aircraft hangar than a submarine canteen.

The decor is sparse and minimalistic, but the huge communal tables that span the room make for a sociable atmosphere.

As you are shown to your seat you can see the chefs working over their steaming pans in the open kitchen at the far end.

The service was truly amazing during our visit. My partner and I had only just been handed our menus when the waiter returned to ask what we wanted to eat. It would have been nice to have had a bit more time to choose, but this was fast-food Japanese style -- as we would soon find out.

He typed our orders into a hand-held computer and then hurried to the chefs -- only to return seconds later with our piping hot dishes. The restaurant is based on a traditional Japanese ramen shop where the food is healthy and the catchwords are positive living.

Most people who visit go for a huge noodle bowl and a sidedish of dumplings or salad as well.

This is not the place for a traditional three-course meal, but the Mount Fuji-like proportions are more than enough.

I went for a chicken tama rice (£5.25) with a yasai gyoza (£3.80) and my partner picked a chicken ramen (£5.60) with a gyoza (£3.80). The tama was delicious. It contained stir-fried courgettes and mushrooms in a wine, garlic, ginger and egg sauce.

My partner also relished her ramen, which included soup and noodles topped with slices of grilled chicken breast, seasoned greens and spring onions.

But the highlight of our meal was definately our gyoza side orders.

My yasai gyoza contained five grilled vegetable dumplings filled with cabbage, carrot, water chestnut, onion, celery and Chinese leaf with a chilli, garlic and soy sauce.

My partner's gyoza was similar but included generous pieces of grilled chicken and Chinese chives. It is traditional to make slurping noises while eating noodles in Japan and we were advised to do the same because, apparently, the extra oxygen adds to the taste. So we tucked in with spoons and chopsticks and slurped away before sipping two bottles of Japanese beer.

There were plenty of good value dishes on the menu and, if we had not been so full, we might have stayed for more.

The katsu curry (£6), with its lettuce and red pickle garnish, sounded exciting, as did the yasai chilli men (£7.75).

Diners can even try a "complete Wagamama" (£10.50). It includes a seafood ramen, three gyoza and a choice of fresh fruit juice.

There is a good selection of salads and vegetable dishes for the vegetarians among you and a variety of meat meals for those who are not.

Disabled access is also good, with a lift to take you back up to the ground floor. But this might not be the best place to bring young children.

For a city centre restaurant it is excellent value for money and a good spot to go after a shopping expedition.

How to get there

Couldn't be easier. Simply hop on a train towards Manchester town centre, get off at Victoria Station and Wagamama is just a few yards away, near the main entrance to The Printworks.

Star Rating

Quality of food: ****

Menu: ****

Service: ****

Value for money: ****

Atmosphere: ***

Overall rating: ****