I HAVE visited the King William pub in Bromley Cross on several occasions over last couple of years, and always feel a touch of envy looking at the groups of expectant diners waiting for their tables in the adjoining restaurant.

Don't get me wrong -- the traditional pub is splendid in its own right -- but those wonderful smells you associate with Italian cooking are so very tempting as they waft through the doorway.

It is two years since my wife Joanne and I last visited La Roma, and we were looking forward to our return visit, having been pleasantly surprised to be able to reserve a table at short notice on a Saturday evening.

In truth not a lot has changed, and indeed why should it, given the excellent meal we had the last time.

And what a fine idea it is to stick a restaurant on the side of a cosy pub with good beer on tap to keep you happy while you wait . . .

The restaurant itself was busy, but not to bursting point, and our table for two was just big enough for the various glasses, side dishes and main courses we were about to order.

A tempting array of starters ranged from melon, garlic bread and prawn cocktail through to pasta dishes which could have been a main course in themselves. Feeling slightly adventurous, I opted for one of the more expensive choices; chicken liver with peppers and a chilli sauce, and immediately realised this belonged firmly in the latter category.

But at £4.95 it was worth every penny, and came piping hot in a large bowl full to brimming with pieces of tender liver.

My wife chose a more traditional plate of garlic bread with tomato, which was a very reasonable £2.20 and cooked to perfection.

My starter was every bit as tasty as it smelled and I was happy to pinch a couple of slices of the garlic bread to help mop up the delicious sauce.

We ordered a bottle of white wine, an Orvieto Classico, which at £9.95 was pricier than the house white, but worth the extra couple of quid.

There were dozens of main course choices on offer, ranging from cheese and tomato pizza at less than a fiver, to steak and and fish dishes for more expensive tastes.

I was drawn to the king prawn trilussa -- prawns in a white wine and rosemary sauce served on a large bed of rice.

Although it didn't look like a massive portion, it was served on one of those plates that are deceptively deep, and there was more than enough for me.

The prawns were delicious, and the subtle sauce made a real change from my usual choices in Italian restaurants, which tend to veer more towards the canelloni and lasagne varieties. It was slightly pricier, too, at £11.95, but well worth it.

My wife chose the salmon cooked in cream, garlic and tomato sauce, which she said was excellent, and not too heavy. At £6.80 the price was right, too.

Italian food can be rather filling, and we are not big sweet eaters, but there was a reasonable selection on offer, all at £2.60.

I had a vanilla ice cream, while my wife sensibly chose a cappuccino coffee, at £1.20, although both of us were toying with the idea of a coffee licquer (£3.25).

The bill was just short of £40, which, including the wine, seemed very reasonable. We were not rushed, and the waiters were friendly without being overly attentive, and we finished our wine at our leisure.

Of course, there's even less rush when there's a pub next door and you've been offered a lift home.

It's funny how, no matter how full you are, there's always just enough room left for a pint...

HOW TO GET THERE

Take Tonge Moor Road out of Bolton town centre. Turn left at the Royal Oak junction into Turton Road towards Bromley Cross, and right at the railway bridge into Chapeltown Road. Carry on up the hill until the road begins to drop again. Look out for the King William IV pub on the left. The restaurant is attached to the pub, and a car park provides enough spaces for both.

RATING

Quality of food...****

Menu...***

Service...****

Value for money...****

Atmosphere...***

Overall rating...****