NORMANDY -- the part of France that has played such a decisive role in British history for 1,000 years. From William the Conqueror's invasion in 1066, to our return visit on D-Day in June 1944, it seems that destiny will retain the link between our shores.

And it certainly looks like Normandy will remain the first choice and favourite destination in France for many British holidaymakers.

Last July, a chance to try out one of Ford's latest diesel engined Mondeo models prompted me to try and get the best of both worlds -- catching up with the attractions of the Normandy countryside and coastline, while enjoying diesel prices considerably below those in Britain.

Britain's motoring network (providing the M6 is behaving itself) makes getting to the south coast and the Portsmouth ferry terminal a straightforward exercise.

P&0 operate an excellent fleet of first class, well-equipped ferries to such French ports as Calais, Cherbourg and in our case, Le Havre.

Long gone are the days when such vehicle and passenger ferries meant basic travel.

Today the vessels can quite fairly be compared to the standards expected on cruise ships, with excellent restaurants, really comfortable seats and cabins, and last but by no means least, shops with prices that echo the duty-free days of fond memory.

Our crossing was booked as part of a Eurocamp package, which made sorting out our stay in France much more simple and straightforward than booking ferries and accommodation on a separate basis.

Overnight to Le Havre involved a late evening sailing. Just a case of parking up the car on board, leaving the bags in the comfy cabin, relaxing in the understandably popular bar and unwinding after the long drive down from Bolton.

After breakfast, the early arrival at Le Havre meant no traffic congestion. It was simply a case of picking up the easy-to-follow route of just over an hour to our destination and touring base, and then enjoying several days touring on excellent French roads.

Our aim of doing some serious and worthwhile motoring on the uncongested highways in that part of France, meant that we arranged to stay in one of Eurocamps' large static caravans at Le Brevedent, just a short distance from the sleepy village of Blangy-le-Chateau and within easy reach of the equally attractive town of Pont l'Eveque.

History lovers and those in search of the perfect holiday retreat will find the complex at Le Brevedent a bit like stepping back in time.

To illustrate the scene, imagine a Louis XVIth style manor house, whose classic elegance dominates a wooded park.

At its centre a mirror -- a small lake -- in the surface of which is reflected the multiple variations of colours of the trees, resembling an impressionist painting.

The gardens in Le Brevedent are a paradise for children, with a heated swimming pool and a protected games area specially for them.

A French family has occupied the site for more than 200 years and the manor house simply oozes history.

The head of the family, Madame Gurrey, still takes an active role in the running of things, despite being well into her pension years.

And her speciality is the Saturday night lecture (usually to a full house) about the life and times of the estate, the colourful family history and many of the incidents that have occurred over the years. A real tale of the unexpected.

Because Le Brevedent is still very much a family affair, "the team'' operates with a smooth efficiency when it comes to caravan and tent pitches.

On the camp site is a well stocked shop and a restaurant, that also serves takeaway dishes. All the usual other campsite facilities seemed to operate smoothly and leisure choices include tennis, mini golf, pony and horse riding, rambles and bike hire, fishing, games room, all in picturesque Normandy countryside, and set out in such a way that there's no crush of tents or caravans.

We stayed in one of Eurocamp's Verona static caravans -- which we have encountered before and always found excellent -- and the version at le Brevedent had a central living area separating the two bedrooms, excellent kitchen, dining and washroom features, gas fire (Normandy evenings can be a bit chilly) and outside there were tables and chairs. In fact, all you need to bring for a stay in such a holiday home are pillow cases, sheets or duvets/sleeping bags and towels.

Just a leisurely stroll down the road from Castel Campsite Brevedent, the small village of Blangy-le-Chateau has an adequate range of shops to top up anything that is in short supply, and the town of Pont-l'Eveque has everything else you could need.

In fact the place deserves a half day visit itself. However, it's worth remembering that shop hours in France vary somewhat to our own.

With the object of the visit being to catch up on the sights and story of Normandy, it was just a matter of planning how to make the best use of the several days with Mr Ford's latest Mondeo diesel. Obviously the famous Normandy beaches, of crucial 1944 wartime importance, were on the schedule, but the whole region is packed with places well worth a visit, and it's easy to see why people return to this part of France year after year.

Bayeux, with its links to William the Conqueror and the famous tapestry, has to be on the list of must see places.

It's a town that is both quiet and dynamic, where quality and tradition seem to be respected, and, on a fine day, a stroll through its streets won't fail to please. Its exceptional architectural history has been miraculously preserved in view of events that have occurred in Normandy.

The famous tapestry -- actually an embroidery in wool on a background of linen 250ft long and 20ins high -- bears unique pictorial witness to the Battle of Hastings, and life in the world of the 11th century.

The town of Falaise, unlike Bayeux, took a terrible pounding in the battles after D-Day in 1944 -- in fact most of it was laid to waste. But it's the place where the Dukes of Normandy put their stamp on history, where William was born, and, with the ongoing renovations today, still seems to stand guard over the town.

The war museum depicting the fighting in and around Falaise during 1944, is a fascinating latter-day history lesson. In contrast to troubled times, the town of Lisieux is the place where the region's religious heritage is very much to the fore, as this was the place from which Saint Teresa carried out so much of her work.

This part of France is, of course, the Calvados region, and not for nothing is it called "Normandy in a nutshell". From its apple blossom -- and the famous Calvados drink -- to cheese, butter and cream, plus picture postcard half-timbered buildings, the region just has to keep stopping you in your tracks as you travel through it.

You can travel along Normandy's Floral Coast from the lovely resort of Cabourg, to the fashionable one of Deauville and its equally charming neighbour Trouville. South from Caen takes you into the area of "Swiss Normandy" and the breathtaking beauty of the River Orne and spectacular gorges of the Vine Valley.

Medieaval history lovers can spend at least a full day (or preferably two) completing the Historic Route of the Dukes of Normandy, that takes in Caen, Falaise, St-Germain de Livet, Pont-l'Eveque, Canapville and Benouville. But each of the manors, chateaux, distilleries and museums will tempt you to stay far longer than you anticipated. One village that we found ourselves in on the first Sunday morning was Cambremer, which was like stepping back in time. Stalls overflowing with regional food and drink, and villagers all dressed in traditional styles. One of the main characters was an elderly gent dressed up as a drummer in Napoleon Bonaparte's army. He quickly worked out we were Brits ,and, to a roll of the drums, bellowed "Long live the Emperor!'' To which we took great delight in replying "Long live Wellington!" Laughter all around -- and we returned to the campsite with enough provisions for two days.

No visit to Normandy would be complete without visiting the coastal areas of the D-Day landings and subsequent Battle of Normandy.

The landing operation began during the night of June 5/6, when three airborne divisions were dropped on either flank of the front. The paratroops' mission was to capture certain key points (the Merville battery, the bridge over the Caen canal, roads, locks etc). A little later, several hundred Rangers managed to capture the fortified position at the Pointe du Hoc, after a particularly daring assault. Meanwhile, between 6.30am and 7.30am, 135,000 men and roughly 20,000 vehicles were brought in by sea on five landing beaches as planned. Although the objectives fixed for the evening of D-Day (Caen, Bayeux, Isigny, Carentan), were not achieved, overall the operation was a success -- except at Omaha Beach (Colleville-Saint-Laurent-Vierville) where, despite a show of extraordinary courage from the Americans, the beachhead for long hung in the balance. It then remained to link up the five assault beaches and face the German counter-attack.

A veritable open air museum, the historical area of the Battle of Normandy brings together all museums and places of interest and remembrance connected with D-Day and the ensuing offensive in the three departments of Calvados, Manche and Orne.

Eight itineraries in chronological sequence clearly signposted "Normandie Terre -- Liberte", enable the visitor to discover these history-packed places and follow the unfolding of this huge battle on which the outcome of the Second World War depended. Cemeteries demand to be visited out of respect to those fighting to free Europe. And the huge American one at Colleville-sur-Mer highlights the high price their troops paid at that point. It simply leaves you lost for words.

One thing I realised years ago, is that with France you always need time. The size of the country and wealth of fascinating places to visit tends to make you abandon any timetables and start to plan a return visit.

So, yes, we will be going back to Normandy.

We've still only scratched the surface of this great region.

And with the price of diesel in France, there's no prizes for guessing what sort of car we will be using for future touring.

NORMANDY FACT FILE

Normandy Tourist Board: The Old Bakery, Bath Hill, Heynsham, Bristol, BS31 1HG.

Eurocamp: Hartford Manor, Greenbank Lane, Northwich, Cheshire, CW8 1HW. Tel 01606 787000.

Le Brevedent Castel Camping: 14130 Le Brevedent, Blangy-le-Chateau, Normany. Tel (33) 02316 47288.

CAPTIONS (clockwise, from top left)

CAMPSITE CENTREPIECE: The Manor house at Castel Camping le Brevedent in Normandy.

PICTURE POSTCARD: Touring in Normandy is often a stop-start affair, with buildings like this which make you look and linger

BEACH FULL OF HISTORY: So quiet and peaceful now, but Omaha Beach on the Normandy coast was like a scene from hell on June 6, 1944.

MARKET DAY MAGIC

PRETTY: The small lake that is an outstanding feature of the site at Le Brevedent

WHERE IT ALL BEGAN: William the Conqueror's castle birthplace at Falaise in Normandy.