I HAVE enjoyed many an evening in the River Bar at the Lowry Hotel but had yet to sample the food in the River Room Marco Pierre White (MPW) restaurant.

My birthday seemed to be the perfect excuse and I mentioned it in passing to my husband who, in turn, booked a table.

Judging by the amount of people already seated in the restaurant when we arrived, around 8.30-ish on a Saturday night it's advisable to book ahead.

We decided to have a drink in the River Bar first. With its riverside setting and comfy leather sofas to sink into, the atmosphere is sophisticated yet relaxed. While we enjoyed our drinks we looked at the extensive menu.

Hors d'oeuvres included soup of mussel and saffron (£5.50), salmon gravalax with oyster beignets and citrus dressing (£7.25) or salad of baby gems with tiger prawns and beluga caviar (£8.50).

I had dressed Cornish crab (£6) which was absolutely delicious and not too rich as crab can sometimes be.

My husband went for the eggs benedict (£7.25) which is normally served with roasted black leg ham, but being vegetarian he asked the waiter if they could omit the meat. It wasn't a problem -- nothing was for the restaurant staff -- and so he enjoyed one of his favourite dishes.

We had a half bottle of Rioja (£11.50) and, unknown to me, my husband had ordered a bottle of Alan Thienot Champagne (£38) to be served during the meal. Was I happy? Er, yes!

The main courses proved just as tough a choice as the starters, with a wonderful range of pastas, fish and meats to choose from.

There was linguine of clams Noilly Prat veloute (£9.25), risotto of saffron (£8.95), rump of lamb, Provencal vegetables and olive jus (£14.95) or braised lamb shank with creamed garlic polenta and sauce of fennel (£14.50).

I decided on the peppered tuna Nicoise (£8.95) and I was glad I did.

The tuna steak, which was covered in hot peppercorns, was cooked medium-to-rare and was still pink in the middle. It sat on top of a bed of green beans and was surrounded by slices of warm soft boiled eggs and slivers of potato. The fish was absolutely perfect -- succulent and tender.

We had asked for a side order of fried egg plant with parmesan shavings (£3.25) -- all side orders are this price -- and it was delicious.

My husband had Porcini mushroom risotto with caramelised artichoke and truffle oil (£9.50) and it has to be said this dish must have been made by the best chef in the world. No, universe.

It was quite simply the best risotto either of us had ever tasted and I'm not even going to try and put it into words.

Normally I can't face desserts but having sneaked a look at what was on offer when I first checked out the menu, I knew on this occasion I could be persuaded.

All priced at £5.50, you can choose from gooseberry jam roly poly with creme anglaise, iced berries in white chocolate sauce, cappuccino brulee with warm cinnamon doughnuts or warm marscapone and vanilla rice pudding.

After changing my mind for the umpteenth time, I decided on the cheese selection.

I was a little disappointed with my choice -- three types of cheese with a tasty pear relish and some rather boring biscuits. Not bad, but nothing special either. My husband, however, hit the jackpot with his choice of baked chocolate cheesecake with milk ice cream.

Of course, as soon as I saw it I wanted it. But even though it was my birthday, he would only allow me one measly mouthful. It was enough to appreciate the rich, bitter-chocolate of the cheesecake and the yummy ice cream.

At £124.25 for the two of us (including 10 per cent service charge), The River Room is not the cheapest place to dine, but why should it be?

The award-winning food is exquisite, the staff are friendly yet highly professional and the surroundings are stylish. I'm sure I can guarantee you wonderful food and service. The romantic husband? Sorry, you'll have to get your own!

River Room MPW at The Lowry Hotel, 50 Dearmans Place, Chapel Wharf, Salford.

Tel: 0161 827 4041

Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

Star rating ****