ALTHOUGH it attracts more than seven million tourists a year, Majorca has areas completely untouched by the hordes of revellers it is famous for.

In the north of the island, beyond the ancient and beautiful town of Soller, lie tiny villages where tourist coaches hardly ever stray, even at the height of summer, writes Harvey Elliott.

Places such as Biniaratx and Fornalutx, the unusual names come from ancient Moorish settlers on the island, cling to the great mountain range running along the Northern coast, their tiny lanes and byways hidden from view among the olive trees above and the orange groves below.

A rattling train heaves its way up the mountain from the centre of Palma, pausing to stop while passengers get an eagle's eye view of the deep valley in which Soller lies.

And from there it is possible to walk, in temperatures which even in mid-January rarely drop below the mid 50s, up into the foothills of the Tramuntana mountain ranges. Alternatively, you could drive along narrow lanes towards the summer tourist "hotspot" of Valldemossa.To the north is Deia, the high mountain village in whose graveyard lies the body of Robert Graves. Here, the stunning light still attracts artists and painters from around the world.

The hotel restaurant, El Olivo, has always been one of the best of the island and still houses the original olive press after which it is named. A three night break here including two dinners costs from £250.

But for a real taste of original, hand-produced, Majorcan olive oil find your way, through the maze of country lanes and olive groves, to C'an Det. Founded in 1561, this old Majorcan finca, or farmhouse -- takes the local olives and processes them by hand into oil of the most exquisite kind.

Golf has become one of island's biggest attractions. Majorca has no fewer than 21 courses, many of them meandering through olive groves and wildlife reservations. The climate is almost always ideal for golf, year round, and courses are rarely closed.

Even at the prestigious Real Golf de Bendinat, 10 minutes by car from the centre of Palma, overlooking the beach and surrounded by tree covered hills, a round is unlikely to cost more than about £15 with special concessions for guests at the many nearby hotels.

I stayed in five star luxury at the Hotel Valparaiso Palace in Palma with stunning views across the harbour and marina and with service comparable to Europe's best hotels. For those on a tighter budget, there are two or even three star hotels anxious to entertain guests during the quieter winter months. On Palma seafront, for example, the Hotel Costa Azul charges around £56 per person per night in winter, with either lunch or dinner thrown in. Cheap flights from Britain ensure that this is one of the best short break deals in Europe.

Eating out is good value too, especially at Read's Hotel, a converted manor house near the village of Santa Maria in central Majorca. Former lawyer Vivian Read bought the crumbling 500 year old manor house set in breathtaking, yet peaceful countryside and, since 1988, he and his family have gradually made it into one of the best, and certainly most eccentrically luxurious, on the island.

Many bars and cafes in Palma offer local tapas or you can pause for a drink in the many small palaces whose internal courtyards which have now been converted into some of Majorca's favourite eating and meeting places.

With concerts, art exhibitions, the magnificent, brooding cathedral, hidden manor houses, museums and historic castles all within a few minutes drive from summer "hotspots", Majorca truly has something special for winter visitors.

Harvey Elliott was a guest of Majorca Tourist Board and stayed at the five star Valparaiso Palace Hotel in Palma, 0034 971 403000 and www.grupotel.com. Contact your local ABTA travel agent for holidays to Majorca.