TELLING people you are going on holiday to Barbados is a pretty failsafe way of turning them green with envy.

They imagine - and you expect - long lazy days spent on a beautiful beach, rum punch in hand, being warmed by the Caribbean sun yet cooled by the breezes of ever-present tradewinds.

So it was a bit of a shock to see the island - generally reckoned the most elegant and best-ordered of the mainstream Caribbean islands by travellers - described as "holidayed to death" by one travel writer recently.

It has certainly became more accessible to the ordinary holidaymaker, and lot of people have experienced what it's got to offer.

But does that mean they have experienced absolutely everything it has to offer? This special little island, just 21 miles long and 14 miles wide, has enough to tempt visitors back time after time.

A drive along the west coast of Barbados reveals an island where tourism has clearly taken over from sugar as the principal industry.

Hotel after pastel-coloured hotel front the golden sands and turquoise waters, mile upon mile.

Look a tiny bit further afield and you find some amazing places to stay, visit and eat which reveal a completely different side to the island. The range of places to eat, and choice of dishes from Bajan to Asian dishes, is stunning.

Our base was The Crane, the oldest hotel in Barbados, originally opened in 1887. Overlooking Crane Beach on the south-east coast, the resort is expanding to include new suites, another restaurant and a spa set in a coconut grove.

Everything here, from its seclusion to its powdery pink beach with exhilarating crashing waves, sets it apart as a little bit different, a little bit special.

The Crane's masterstroke is that it lured Hamish Watson, the maestro who made Cobblers Cove one of the most fashionable and highly-regarded hotels on the island, to plan a new chapter in its history.

Naturally, the redesign and the grand plans have forged ahead since he arrived. Many rooms and suites in the original hotel, once part of a mansion built in 1790, retain their coral stone walls and antique furnishings.

New parts of the hotel have the 19th century Colonial charm too. Bajan architects and artisans ensure the theme of coral stone walls, hardwood floors, 11ft-high timber tray ceilings and high four-poster beds is continued.

All this, and 21st century facilities too - DVD players and internet access, luxurious bathrooms boasting huge whirlpool baths and spa showers, while many rooms feature private pools.

What really sets The Crane apart, however, is a strong emphasis on self-catering for its guests - rooms include a fully-equipped kitchen area with fridge, freezer and cooker and even a dishwasher. To stock up, you either join a weekly shopping trip, or order food delivered direct to your apartment.

The concept means that families can enjoy a high-quality stay on Barbados at a reasonable price - without rattling up huge bills in restaurants every night. It's a far cry from the days when only the affluent and the lazy relaxed in Barbados's finest establishments.

Although major refurbishment work continues, The Crane is already a delightful resort in which it is easy to lose yourself. During our stay, the beach was never crowded, the excellent restaurant never rushed, the friendly staff always happy to chat.

Further inland is another hidden gem, Villa Nova, named Boutique Hotel of the Year in the World Travel Awards 2003.

The plantation house was built in 1834, and later became the Caribbean home of Sir Anthony Eden, the British prime minister sunk by the disaster of the Suez invasion.

Set in 15 acres of tropical forest and gardens in the countryside above the east coast, the tranquil hotel features 27 rooms and suites created by designer Nina Campbell.

The hotel, described by proprietor Lynne Pemberton as "a wonderful setting for total relaxation and reflection", is about to open a new spa which will offer fitness training, including boot camp retreats, alongside pampering treatments.

With hideaways like The Crane and Villa Nova on offer, it would be easy to stay put and live the life of luxury. But not to venture out would be to miss out on the warmth, beauty and culture of the island itself.

Take a drive around to appreciate the contrast between the calm waters of the Caribbean on the west coast, with different shades of blue as far as the eye can see, and the turbulent waves of the Atlantic on the east.

We were lucky enough to have the perfect guide during our stay. Ivor the driver was a mine of information about the island's sights and its history.

On our travels we visited St John's Church, a Gothic church built in 1836 on a cliff, giving stunning views across miles of countryside to the sea, and picturesque Cherry Tree Hill, which is lined not with cherry trees but with mahogany.

Then there was the sugar mill, the plantation house, the island's capital, Bridgetown - and still plenty more to do next time.

As Ivor says, the first visit to Barbados is an appetiser. Go back again for the main course.

Talking of food, another good reason to explore the island is the chance to sample some amazing cuisine.

A highlights of our trip was The Cove at Cattlewash, on the east coast. Here, in a small restaurant looking out to sea, Laurel Ann and Trevor Morley welcome you to their "home" and introduce some of the best Bajan dishes.

Local delicacies, including flying fish, pumpkin fritters and breadfruit, were washed down with what is widely regarded as the best rum punch on the island.

In the fishing town of Oistins, on Friday and Saturday nights, the fish market turns into a spectacular Fish-Fry.

Hundreds of local people and visitors gather in a party atmosphere to sample the day's catch, cooked and sold by vendors dotted around the market on the water's edge. It's an island tradition not to be missed.

Sometimes a place can leave you feeling that it was nice to see it, but there's no need to go back. Barbados isn't like that - especially when you realise you haven't seen it all. The main course beckons.

Travelfacts

Gemma Collins was a guest of British Airways Holidays which offers seven nights room-only at the four-star Crane Hotel, Barbados, from £841 per person from Sept 1 until Nov 12.

Package includes return scheduled flights on British Airways from London Gatwick, and return transfers. Price is subject to availability and includes all UK taxes.

Regional connections - from £30 return - available from Inverness, Aberdeen, Edinburgh, Glasgow, Belfast, Newcastle, Manchester, Isle of Man and Jersey.

Reservations: British Airways Holidays - 0870 2433 406 or visit www.ba.com/beaches.

Information on The Crane on www.thecrane.com

Villa Nova reservations on 001 246 433 1524 or www.villanovabarbados.com

An overnight stay at a Gatwick airport hotel was arranged through Holiday Extras (0870 844 4186/www.holidayextras.co.uk) which provides services at 24 UK airports, including airport hotels with holiday parking, secured airport parking, airport lounges, airport hotels with rail or coach travel, foreign exchange and travel insurance.

The firm offers overnight hotel accommodation at Heathrow airport for £39.50, and a new last-minute on-line booking facility allows airport car parking and hotel accommodation to be arranged 15 minutes before arrival.on Barbados.